When we told people we were going to spend a few days visiting Andorra, we were met with a lot of blank stares. Andorra isn’t on most people’s radars. In fact, most people haven’t even heard of it.
Is Andorra a city or a country?
Short answer: it’s both. Translated from Catalan, Andorra la Vella means Andorra the Town. Come to think of it, its name is well deserved. Not only is it Andorra’s capital city, Andorra la Vella is the country’s only city.
Travel celebrity Rick Steves tells his readers to give Andorra a miss because there isn’t much worth seeing there. Apparently, the stunning mountain scenery, world-class skiing, charming villages, thermal spas, and Madriu-Perafita-Claror Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site aren’t much.
Why visit Andorra?
If you were to drive into Andorra, you might almost wonder whether the entire country is just one big shopping center. Things like perfume, tobacco, and electronic items are tax-free, so the country makes a good income from consumer and luxury goods.
All well and good, but we hadn’t come to Andorra to shop. We were eager to discover what this little postage-stamp of a country had to offer. First stop, the capital.
💡 PRO TIP: Thanks to Andorra’s tax-free status, gas is quite cheap. Be sure to fill up before you leave the country!
Visiting Andorra la Vella’s old town, barri antic
We’re suckers for old cities; the older, the better. Any time we hear words like “Gothic section,” “old town,” or “walled city,” we get excited.
And so, we set aside an afternoon to walk around Andorra la Vella because we heard that it’s been here since the 1200s.
This is the first medieval city we can recall visiting that never had walls. I mean, never. Then again, why would Andorra la Vella have needed walls in the first place? The Pyrenees seem to have done a pretty good job protecting it so far.
Downtown Andorra la Vella
The oldest part of Andorra la Vella is the Barri Antic, which means “old town” in Catalan. It has been the heart of the city since the principality was little more than a village.
What makes Andorra la Vella especially enchanting is that it still retains its medieval allure. Cobbled streets wind every which way in its labyrinthine layout, and the rustic stone buildings look like they’ve been standing there since the Middle Ages.
Some of the streets are so narrow they’re little more than a walkway fit for people on foot. They may have been wide enough to permit a cart to pass through back in the day, but most modern-day drivers will have a hard time squeezing through.
In case you’re wondering, Minim’s restaurant offers traditional Andorran cuisine.
Casa de la Vall
I don’t know if it’s the oldest building in town, but Casa de la Vall (Town Hall) is certainly the best-known. Built as a stately home in the early 1500s, it was purchased and became the parliamentary house in 1702.
The Parliament no longer meets here, however; they recently moved to a modern glass structure across the square. I think this is a beautiful example of how Andorra has managed to honor its history while staying with the times.
A view of Andorra la Vella from above
As we left Casa de la Vall, we discovered another piazza where stairs drew us like moths to a flame. They led us up to a walkway that gave us a beautiful place to overlook and photograph the city in all directions.
I started with a view south, toward Spain, from whence we’d come. OK, maybe not south, exactly. I kind of lost my way as we drove through those twisting roads.
And finally, in the other direction, toward France. You can see that Casa de Vall is super close to where we’re standing. What you can’t clearly see in this photo is the massive shopping area that lies beyond. But I promise: It’s there.
Where to eat in Andorra la Vella
We may watch what we eat at home, but when we travel, we never miss a chance to try the local specialties.
One of our favorite travel hacks is to look for restaurants that are crowded. We’ve discovered that full tables and waitlists are usually a sign of great food.
A random, packed bakery lured us in for lunch, and we were rewarded with mouthwatering sandwiches made with freshly-baked bread. Similarly, the lively atmosphere of a sidestreet birreria convinced us to take a break from sightseeing and try a flight of local brews.
Come to think of it, that’s how we ended up eating one of the most memorable meals we can recall. In Andorra, “Let’s see where this road takes us” took us by a small, random restaurant with quite a few cars in its parking lot. We took a chance and entered.
Long story short, it was the best roasted duck we’ve ever enjoyed and inspired an entire article!
💡 PRO TIP: Don’t rely on the “crowded restaurants rule” in tourist areas. These spots often rely on location and convenience rather than culinary excellence. If you want to discover truly tasty food, leave the main drag and explore the side streets. Look for places with menus in the local language; that’s usually a good sign of authentic grub.
Impressions of Andorra la Vella
Now, whenever anyone asks us if Andorra la Vella is worth a visit, we tell them that the capital is like Gatlinburg on steroids. It’s all rustic stone and wood buildings in a wooded mountain setting.
Come to think of it, the whole country looks like that.
We drove all over the country and took advantage of the perfect outdoor weather with a bit of hiking. We’ve been reminiscing about the food and the views ever since.
Rick Steves really needs to take a second look.
Plan your trip
- Tourist bureau: Turisme Andorra
- Photos: For more, please see our Andorra photo gallery.
- Hotel: We stayed at Rutllan and Spa.
Read more
Books on Amazon
- Michelin Spain: Northeast Catalonia, Aragon, Andorra
- Secrets of the Seven Smallest States of Europe by Thomas M. Eccardt
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“Rick Steves really needs to take a second look.”
Thank you Linda! As someone who calls Andorra home, it’s so nice to read a review of Andorra la Vella that doesn’t complain about the shopping but instead appreciates the history and architecture here.
I know it was a few years since you visited, but I think you’ll find it’s already changed a lot. Do you think we can convince you to make another visit? 🙂
Andorra is definitely worth another visit, David! We hadn’t realized that it’s changed, though. That’s news to us.
We’re always open to adding updated content, though we prefer to do it on a Fam trip or with a local guide who understands the culture and knows how to presesnt places in their best light. If someone in Andorra can make that happen, we’ll happily return. 🙂
Andorra is among the most incredible places I have visited in the last year and indeed these places mentioned in the post are very good for sightseeing and sightseeing. I like the region because of the variety of options for having fun with friends. I also recommend the local restaurants where they offer different kinds of different foods and very tasty. I loved the post 🙂
We’re so glad you agree, Lucas! Do you have any tips for good local restaurants?
It certainly looks really picturesque set between the mountains on either side. Love those tiny streets that twist and turn – you never know what is on the other end. So much fun for exploring!
While we were wandering around we found an awesome beer shop on one of the side streets and tried the local brew. That was fun!
My family and I spent a day in Andorra, and I’d give it a miss. I felt that the Old Quarter had zero character and that the city was like a strange juxtaposition of a ski town with an outdoor mall. Apart from the shopping and probably great skiing, it was merely a tick in the countries I’ve seen box.
Lol … that’s why all our photos of the town are of the Barri Antic. Did you see the rest of the countryside? We enjoyed that more.
Andorra looks very pretty! I have to go there one day as it’s the ONE place my husband has been that I haven’t and he goes on about it alllllllllllllllll the time. He likes to say that makes him better travelled than me even though I have been to about 30 more countries. I need to shut him up!!! lol
I sympathize. Dan has been to two countries I’ve not been to (Jamaica and Bahamas) and I’ve been to two he’s not seen (Australia and Fiji). He keeps telling me we need to visit Australia and Fiji so he’ll have more countries under his belt than I have.