Braubach, a little-known town near Koblenz, Germany, has a surprise in store for its visitors: the best-preserved castle in the entire Middle Rhine Valley. Dating from 1117, Marksburg Castle is arguably one of the best castles to visit in Germany. That’s why so many Rhine river cruises include a Marksburg Castle tour on their itineraries.
Don’t let the “castle” part of its name fool you. This Marksburg edifice has nothing in common with Disney fairy tales, because it wasn’t meant to be a palace for royalty. Like most countryside castles, Marksburg Castle was intended as a fortress.
Europe’s countryside was the domain of outlaw bands who raided farms and villages to fill their pockets and stomachs. Landowners built castles to protect their harvest and hired hands. Local residents paid annual taxes for such protection, too.
Many medieval castles were built to “protect” key roads and rivers. Or more accurately, the landowners extorted tolls from anyone passing by. Rhine River castles were no exception.
There was no sneaking by these guys. They could watch them coming down the river in both directions.
Why visit Marksburg Castle
For the most part, the dramatic castles that line the Rhine are Romantic Era reconstructions. Not so with Marksburg, which has survived conquests, Napoleonic rule, and two World Wars. Its construction is nearly all original.
Actually, it is the only Rhine river castle never to have been destroyed, so it has been continuously inhabited for more than 700 years.
Over the centuries, Marksburg Castle has grown bit-by-bit, though its original keep is still in the center of the complex. Most of the additions were for defense, which is obvious as you walk through the complex.
Marksburg Castle visitor FAQs
Inside Marksburg Castle: tour review
Marksburg Castle was a part of our Rhine River cruise itinerary. The company kindly bused everyone to the top of the hill. It’s a long walk and pretty steep, and the castle does not offer shuttle service.
We met our tour guide outside the first castle gate. She escorted us up the path and brought us to the gateway.
The entry gates
The gated entrance was designed to be tall enough for knights on horseback to gallop through. Then the owner realized that enemy hordes would be able to enter en masse. Wisely, he had the size of the gate reduced.
Knights’ Stairway
Once you’ve made it through the gate, you’ll come to a very well-worn staircase. Called the “Knights’ Stairway,” it’s made from slate.
These steps were carved with a rough surface to keep horses from slipping on rainy days. The stones are worn and uneven due to all those horses riding over it for 800 years. We learned the hard way: it’s easy to trip if you’re not careful. So watch your step!
The walkway winds uphill so you’ll get a bit of a workout if you’re not used to slopes. It passes under a bridge that was used for defense. It was a handy location for pouring boiling pitch on invaders.
Castle defense: the “Great Battery”
Most of Marksburg’s defense construction was built to house its cannons. They were always aimed in the direction of the lower Rhine, so as to protect the nearby town of Braubach.
The oldest cannon at the castle dates from around 1500. It’s quite short, as cannons go. Interestingly, it loaded from the back and it had a limited firing distance.
By the time 150 years had passed, people started using bigger, more modern cannons. While they were much more powerful, they had to be front-loaded. This is why cannons were on wheels: so they could easily load them.
Marksburg’s wine cellar
Wine, not beer, has traditionally been the preferred drink in these parts of Germany. Because castle water was unclean, everyone drank wine. Don’t get too excited about that though, because the wine was actually less alcoholic than today’s beer.
The pitchers on the wall held each person’s daily allotment. The bellows was part of the winemaking process.
Gothic hall
This hall is actually a kitchen, including an oven big enough to roast an ox whole. The arms holding the pots have notches to control the heat.
Servants were expected to be unseen by the noble family. They were able to stoke the fire simply by opening the little metal door (in the photo below). The triangular chair was used to make the job more comfortable. But no, that’s not a backrest, it’s what the servant would lean on.
The residential apartments
The bedroom was the only heated room in the castle. However, it came with a downside: The nobles were constantly exposed to smoke, and this caused chronic breathing problems.
Sleeping quarters
If the bed looks short to you, it is. The occupants slept with their backs elevated, which helped them breathe. The bed’s canopy helped to retain heat at night, while the curtains blocked some of the smoke from the fireplace.
Our guide mentioned that the curtains also kept out critters, but didn’t go into detail. I don’t quite see how that would work, unless rats were climbing up to share the bed or something.
Window seat
There was a deep window seat in the apartment, designed to let in maximum light for handwork and reading. Women would sit here and gossip (or “spin a yarn”) while doing needlework or working on the spinning wheel.
The privy
The privy/toilet was the most vulnerable and yet the most necessary room of all. It was also one of the most memorable things in the entire tour.
I had mistakenly assumed that the occupants used chamber pots for their waste, but no … they had an actual room for such important functions! It was little more than an upstairs outhouse, a small outhouse-type seat in a tiny room that stuck out from the side of the building. The privy was positioned over a pigsty that, I assume, took care of any – er – droppings.
This is probably the only bathroom I’ve ever seen that locks from the outside. A clever idea, actually, because was such a weak point in the castle’s defenses. Every potential invader knew that the toilet room would provide easy access to the building. All they had to do was use a ladder and climb through the opening on the bottom.
The outside lock solved that problem.
Chapel
Marksburg Castle was actually a community, and lots of people lived within its walls. Every castle of the era had a chapel for the residents. Marksburg, in fact, was named after St. Mark so its chapel was dedicated to him.
This Gothic-style chapel has beautiful frescoes of St. Mark as well as the lion that symbolizes him. It also has many other Biblical scenes. I was surprised at how brilliantly colored and well preserved they remain.
Armory museum
From thinking of heavenly things to thinking of war, we ended up in a museum. This one displayed all sorts of armor dating from Celtic times.
Here’s something I learned on this tour: The present-day military salute comes from how knights and soldiers used to greet each other. They would raise their visor with their right hand in order to reveal their identity and show that they were friendly.
And of course, there’s another form of armor.
Yes, folks, that’s a chastity belt, a medieval lady’s “armor,” haha. Despite its reputation, its real purpose wasn’t to keep a woman chaste while her husband was away. Women actually used it to protect themselves from assault when traveling.
Horse stables
Our last stop on our tour was the stables. Since the castle had been used as a prison in times gone by, it stands to reason that they’d show off some torture devices. Everything from pillories to face masks.
Not sure why they put it in the stable, though.
Here’s a mask with a heavy ball. It forced its wearer to crawl down where all the mud and animal droppings were. Nasty.
The power of suggestion … pictures like these would be intimidating enough to make anyone confess, guilty or not!
Other things to do at Marksburg Castle
Gift shop
After you finish your tour, you’ll be able to visit a gift shop. Unlike some places that sell a bunch of kitsch, Marksburg’s gift shop actually has some pretty nice souvenirs.
Sure, you’ll find some kitsch here, but the shop also has tons of good stuff. They sell postcards, posters, books, local art, and fun toys like shields and swords, princess and knight outfits, etc. That said, my favorite was a paper book. You can cut out and glue the pieces together to make your own scale model of Marksburg Castle.
ⓘ TIP: The gift shop will carefully wrap and ship your purchases if you don’t have room in your suitcase. That’s reassuring if you’ve found something special. You won’t risk its being broken or stolen during your trip.
Dining options
If you need a bite to eat, you’ll find a cafeteria-style restaurant right next to the gift shop. The panorama terrace offers spectacular, unspoiled views of the meandering Rhine and its valley. You can see for miles and miles. It can be mesmerizing to watch the cruise ships, barges, and boats as they sail the river.
You will also find a picnic terrace right next to the castle – perfect for self-catered snacks and lunches.
Plan your visit
- Marksburg Castle’s official website has information about the castle and practical tips for visiting. They also offer details about Philippsburg Palace and the German Castles Association.
- Lodging – For sleeping options, Booking.com is the best place to research the best deals.
- Transportation – Braubach is about an hour west of Frankfurt. Check Omio for options on getting there.
- Want more sightseeing? Take a look at our Braubach photo gallery.
- Google Maps offers an aerial view of Schloss Marksburg. Zoom, scroll around and explore!
Read more on Amazon:
- The Rhine: History and Legends of Its Castles, Abbeys, Monasteries, and Towns
- Marksburg and Phillipsburg
- The Rhine: Following Europe’s Greatest River from Amsterdam to the Alps
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Love the look of Marksburg castle – so good that they do tours in German and English. It sure looks so steep and lots of walking. Bummer about not being wheel chair friendly.
The beds looked so tiny – our youngest son wouldn’t fit in those beds!!! He would have his legs hanging over big time 🙂
When I was 18 I went to England for 2 months. Touring castles over there were so much fun – so much to see and do and the tours were ideal.
Love your photos and your review of Marksburg Castle
Thanks, Lisa. It’s not your imagination that the beds are short. Back then, they basically slept sitting up, so they really didn’t need a long bed. It’s all because the bedroom fireplaces didn’t vent well and caused lung problems. I guess if they laid down fully, they might not have been able to breathe well.
Hi Linda,
My husband and I are taking the same Viking cruise in August. Thank you for sharing your insights and beautiful photos.
I have a question regarding the walk to the Marksburg Castle. I’ve read that it’s pretty tough. I have some knee issues and I’m concerned that I may have to forego it. Was it a tough hike to reach the castle from the ship? I’d really like to go if I can. Does Viking provide a shuttle or is it all on foot? I’d hate to miss it but I’m a little put off by all the warnings.
Thanks again for sharing your wonderful experience with us!
Hi Laura, I am so happy you like my stories!
I think you’ll be fine. Viking is aware that many passengers have mobility challenges so yes, they do provide a shuttle. The only think to know is that there is some uneven ground entering (a stone walkway) and you will have to negotiate some stairs during the tour. Your Program Director will be happy to advise you if you would like some extra reassurance.
That said, I hope that doesn’t deter you because it’s a very special castle. Should you change your mind after you get there, the castle has a nice picnic area with a view and gift shop where you can relax while you wait for everyone.
Oh, I love this post. With a young son, it will be quite a while before we get to go on one of these cruises, so I have to live vicariously through you 🙂
Well, I’m happy to oblige, Becc. I’ve enjoyed your posts as well. 🙂
We’ve been on quite a few ocean big boat cruises, but never a river cruise. I think a river cruise in Europe is the place to start. Thanks for including so many photos in this post. There’s nothing wrong with your well written words, but in this case, a picture is worth….well, you know.
You’re welcome for the photos. I can never describe a place as well as Dan’s photos do.
What an amazing trip you must have had. I would love to travel and see such beauty. 🙂
I took my first cruise last February, it was a Disney trip with my kids. It was a wonderful cruise, but afterwards I thought, good thing my husband couldn’t come along, he’d have been bored. Now this cruise, that has my husband (and me) written all over. Something to plan for. Have to admit though, I may have to make a pass on the “torture” portion of the tour. 🙂
Thank you Debra for the comment. LOL, yeah I think you can skip the torture portion and maybe opt for a good glass of Riesling instead.
I always prefer seeing history like this than reading about it. Great pictures!
Thanks for the compliment, Cassi.
I’m with you – reading about the privy was interesting. I thought chamber pots as well. I guess that would’ve been for the poor folk. Love the pictures. Thanks for sharing.
I loved your post. I have traveled alot and have never done a cruise done the Rhine. We have talked about. I would have to say my favorite castle is Palace of Versailles. It is absolutely beautiful. A fun thing to do is stay in a castle. We did that in France and it was an unbelievable experience. It is something out of fairyland. The castle you visited is a bit more rustic. I thought that the reason the beds were small as people were smaller back in those days. God I wouldn’t want to wear a chastity belt. Sounds like a great trip
It was a great trip, actually left us wanting to go on more.
Wow Linda! Every time I suppress my itchy feet of travelling, up pops another great post giving me reason to travel again. I love European castles and i think from your post I will put this place on my bucket list! Thanks Linda.
You’re welcome, Kellie. I hope you find time to carve out a trip somewhere soon.
I have never taken one of these cruises before, I’ve only cruised in the Bahamas. I love the picture of the sign in German, I don’t know why foreign signs always interest me. Great post!
Thank you for the kind words, Roni. You should try a river cruise; they have them in the US, too. Never a boring moment. You don’t even NEED a pool!
Amazing photos. It looks like you had an amazing time. I love the paintings on the chapel. 🙂
They are gorgeous. Wish I could have a wall painted like that. 🙂
Loved this post! I have long ben wanting to take one of these cruises and the pictures and descriptions are wonderful! Makes me want to amp up my plans 🙂
What’s stopping you? 😀