Dear Luke and Leia,
Today we had an interesting adventure to Panama Viejo, a city attacked and sacked by Henry Morgan, a British privateer. Quite conveniently, it is right next door to our apartment building.
Also called Panama la Vieja, Panama Viejo has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its cultural significance as the first capital of Panama and because it was the first permanent European settlement in South America.
Why Panama Viejo was attacked and sacked
Panama Viejo is Old Panama, the original Panama City, built over 500 years ago. It is still obvious that the grounds of the city were stately and rather vast back then. As many as 8000 people once lived here.
Soon after it was built, Panama Viejo (back then it was called Panama) became an important port for the Spanish, who were in the process of conquering South America. All the gold they had stolen from the Incas in South America was brought there, then carried overland on the Camino Real to the Caribbean, where it was loaded on boats and brought to Spain. King Charles V of Spain awarded the city a coat of arms, and that was a big deal.
All that gold was way too tempting to ignore. On January 28, 1671, Captain Morgan attacked the city with 1,200 men, while the city was defended by 1,600 men. What might have seemed to be an evenly matched battled turned into a complete rout when Morgan’s group gained control of the high ground and wiped out the Spanish. Not wanting Morgan’s forces to occupy their city, the residents sacked it themselves and fled. Read more about the attack of Panama Viejo here.
They built a new community on a peninsula not far away, which we now call Casco Viejo. (Old Town. Haha – that’s something of a misnomer, isn’t it?)
They left behind some beautiful and interesting ruins, which we finally took the time to explore.
Panama Viejo Museum
Next to the historic site of Panama Viejo (and our apartment building) is the newly built museum complex. Being that we were playing tourist in our home town, we paid the admission and began there. We thought it would help give us more context as we explored the ruins, and we were right. It helps to study the diorama of the original city and gives you something to draw back on when you visit the ruins site.
The museum highlights the history of Panama Viejo
- from its original founding in the early 1500s
- to the attack and sack led by pirate/Captain Morgan (depends on who you ask!)
- to the eventual move from this location to Casco Viejo, about 10 km to the west.
Visiting the ruins of Panama Viejo
We are lucky I guess, because they are working to make the entire grounds a huge tourist attraction which they will call the Panama Viejo Historical Monument Complex. They are tearing up the streets around our building as we speak. By the time you get here you will probably have to pay admission to see anything, but right now we can freely walk around a lot of it any time we want. We never need to pay a fee unless we want to explore the area around the tower – like we do today..
Anyway, as I said, the grounds of Panama Viejo are extensive. It’s relaxing to walk through here under the cool, leafy canopy and hard to picture the mayhem when the city was actually being being attacked and sacked.
The historical complex
Maybe because it is part of a UNESCO site, but they have been doing a lot of excavation and restoration in the area. You need a ticket for the fenced-off area. It is worth it because it is pretty interesting, especially because there are informational plaques all around the area that explain a lot more. The two best preserved structures are the convent and the old cathedral tower. (The convent isn’t fenced off at the moment but Nana doubts that will last.)
The cathedral bell tower
The cathedral stood at the city’s main square, and its bell tower is still standing. We think it will be the icon for the complex.
Of course, our favorite thing is to climb the tower. I’m sure you would like it too. From the top of the bell tower you can easily see the tall buildings of Panama City in one direction and get a bird’s-eye view of the bits and pieces left of the old Panama capital in another.
Panama Viejo Shops
The shops for Panama Viejo are in the same area as the museum and are full of local color and flare. From hand carved figurines to stunning molas, you can find what you want in practically any color. Even the building reflects the colorful tribes that were native to this land.
Panama Viejo is a wonderful place to visit and because of the museum before seeing the ruins it allows you the chance to imagine yourself back in the times when the city was flourishing. However, it is time to close this letter for now.
Love you two and miss you,
Nana and Pap