This guest contribution comes from Jessie, who runs Daytrips Etc.—a travel blog focused on exploring Morocco’s surf coast. Through practical tips and her own local insights, Jessie helps travelers plan day trips and discover the best spots from Taghazout to Essaouira.
Tivat is one of those places that makes you question reality a little. One minute you’re walking past yachts the size of small hotels, the next you’re dodging potholes and ordering coffee from a kiosk that costs less than the bottled water sold two blocks over. It’s glossy, it’s chaotic, it’s oddly appealing.
Porto Montenegro, the marina at the center of it all, feels like it was airlifted in from another world—all marble walkways, high-end boutiques, and €2,000 handbags that could probably fund a local café for a year. But step beyond the port, and the edges soften. Locals greet you with a wave, the ruggedness returns, and with a sigh of relief, Montenegro feels like Montenegro again.
If you’re spending just one day in Tivat, I recommend seeing both worlds—the glossy, glamorous marina and the quieter, more lived-in corners that give the city its charm. This Tivat itinerary will guide you through both, balancing indulgence with authenticity.
Morning: Coffee and People-Watching at Porto Montenegro
Start your day where the action is: Porto Montenegro, the city’s sleek waterfront playground. This is the heart of modern Tivat: a meticulously designed marina lined with high-end boutiques, luxury apartments, and restaurants that wouldn’t look out of place in Monaco.
The first thing you’ll notice is the money. Superyachts bob gently in the water, each one seemingly larger and shinier than the last. There’s a surreal quality to it all, as if someone dropped a billionaire’s playground into the middle of a sleepy coastal town. It’s beautiful, yes, but a little bizarre too.
And that’s part of Tivat’s charm—this contrast between extravagant wealth and the slower, more grounded rhythm of Montenegrin life.
It reminded me a little of Essaouira, Morocco, another coastal town where the line between luxury and local life blurs beautifully. Both have that same mix of sea air, slow mornings, and a kind of unpolished magic hiding just beyond the tourist trail.
Before the day heats up, grab breakfast at Deli Italia—it's easily one of the best cafés in town. The smell of freshly baked focaccia and croissants hits you before you even reach the door. Locals and yacht crews mingle here, chatting over espressos and stuffed croissant sandwiches.
Order a cappuccino, a croissant sandwich (the prosciutto, mozzarella, and tomato is out of this world!), and maybe a scoop of gelato for good measure. It’s a simple pleasure that feels decadent without the price tag, so you can enjoy the marina scene without dropping a small fortune.
Then, take your coffee to go and stroll along the promenade. The marble walkways shimmer in the morning light, and the Adriatic glows that distinctive shade of teal that Montenegro does so well.
Late Morning: Explore Porto Montenegro’s Cultural Side
While most visitors come for the yachts, Porto Montenegro isn’t all glitz. Hidden between the designer shops and champagne bars are a few cultural stops worth exploring.
Start with the Maritime Heritage Museum, located in a former Yugoslav naval building. It’s small but fascinating—filled with relics from Montenegro’s maritime past, from model ships to old uniforms and torpedoes. Entry is inexpensive, and it’s a vivid reminder that Tivat was once a naval base long before billionaires's yachts docked here.
From there, wander through Naval Heritage Park, where you can see two massive submarines up close. Kids love this spot, but even for adults it’s a fun, unexpected peek into Montenegro’s history. Check ticket prices here.
Before you leave the marina area, pop into a few of the boutique shops—even if it’s just for a peruse. You’ll see everything from Montblanc pens to €2,000 handbags, and while you might not be buying, it’s fascinating people-watching territory.
This is where the yacht crowd tends to stay—a world of crisp linen shirts, small dogs, and sunglasses that cost more than a scooter.
Lunch: Local Flavors on the Water
By midday, the sun will be high, and the marina will have that lazy, Mediterranean hum. If you’re ready for lunch, you have two excellent options depending on your mood (and your budget).
For a splurge: Head to One, an elegant waterfront restaurant at the foot of Porto Montenegro's jetty. Their seafood risotto and grilled octopus are particularly delicious, and the views over the yachts are unbeatable. Order a chilled glass of local white wine—Montenegro produces some surprisingly lovely varietals—and just let time stretch.
For something simpler: If you’d rather keep things casual (and affordable), circle back to Deli Italia for their focaccia sandwiches or salads. Grab your meal to go, then find a shady bench near the water. The sound of the masts clinking in the breeze, the gentle hum of conversation, the occasional yacht horn—it’s all part of the Tivat soundtrack.
Afternoon: Beyond the Marina—The Quieter Side of Tivat
Once you've had enough of the polished marina, it's time to explore the local side of Tivat, something most yacht-goers never do.
Follow the foreshore east, away from Porto Montenegro. The path hugs the water, winding past several small parks and local cafés. The energy shifts quickly: the luxury cars give way to bicycles, the marble tiles to cracked pavement.
This is where you’ll find Tivat’s gentler charm. Locals greet each other with a warm Dobar dan! (good day), fishermen mend their nets, and the occasional stray cat darts between olive trees.
Keep walking until you reach Seljanovo Beach, about a 15-minute stroll from the marina. It’s a small, pebbled beach where locals swim, read, and escape the marina’s hustle. Bring a towel and take a dip; the water here is clear and calm, with views stretching across the bay to the peaks of the Lustica Peninsula.
It’s the same feeling I experience in Taghazout, Morocco—that gentle hum of a surf town where time slows and life feels simple again.
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can rent a paddleboard or kayak from one of the small vendors along the beach. The coastline around Tivat is stunning, with little inlets and secret coves just waiting to be explored.
Mid-Afternoon: Gelato, Shade, and a Stroll
After your swim, wander back toward town. The afternoon heat calls for a slower pace.
Grab another gelato from Moritz Eis, near the marina. They do seasonal flavors like fig, pistachio, and local honey. Find a shady spot beneath the palms and watch life drift by.
You might notice how the pace changes throughout the day. In the morning, Tivat hums with workers cleaning decks and delivering goods. By afternoon, it softens—everyone moves slower, conversations linger.
If you have time (and a bit of curiosity), detour a few blocks inland to see Magnolia Square, the town’s modest central plaza. It’s a far cry from Porto Montenegro: a jumble of local cafés, small bakeries, and low-key shops. Sit at one of the outdoor tables and order another coffee (you can’t have too many in Montenegro). The contrast is striking—and grounding.
Evening: Sunset Drinks and Dinner
As golden hour hits, Tivat turns cinematic. The mountains blush in the fading light, the yachts shimmer, and the water reflects everything like glass.
Start the evening with a drink at The Regent Hotel’s Library Bar, one of the classiest (and coziest) spots in town, with plush armchairs, quiet jazz, and a front-row view of the marina. Order a cocktail or a glass of Montenegrin wine and soak it all in. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-01:00
If you prefer something livelier, try Beaches Bar & Grill right on the waterfront. It’s more relaxed, often with live music and a younger crowd.
For dinner, again, you have two solid choices:
- Gallardo Steakhouse (Porto Montenegro)—for perfectly grilled meats, fresh seafood, and impeccable service. It’s upscale but not stuffy.
- Konoba Bacchus (near Seljanovo)—for a more local experience. Here, it's all wooden tables, family-style dishes, and the smell of garlic and grilled fish wafting through the air. Order the brancin (sea bass) and a side of grilled vegetables. You won’t regret it.
Night: Strolling the Promenade
End your day as it began, with a slow walk along the waterfront. The lights of Porto Montenegro shimmer across the water, and a gentle breeze drifts in from the bay. Couples wander hand in hand, children chase each other, and the clink of glasses drifts from the restaurants.
You’ll likely feel that same strange mix of worlds—opulence and simplicity, wealth and warmth—blending together in one small coastal town.
Tivat might be polished on the surface, but just below it, you’ll find something softer. A reminder that even in a place built for the world’s elite, the simple things—a good coffee, a swim at sunset, a shared meal—are what linger most.
Practical Tips for Visiting Tivat
Getting there
- By air: Tivat has its own international airport (TIV), just a 10-minute drive from town.
- By car: It’s also easily accessible from Kotor (25 minutes) and Budva (40 minutes).
- By bus: Take a bus to Tivat station and then a taxi to the city center. However, if you buy bus tickets online, you must pay the ticket counter to print them before boarding the bus.
Getting around: The town is small and walkable. Taxis are inexpensive, but you won’t need them much if you stay near the coast.
Best time to visit: Late May to early October offers warm weather and long, golden evenings. July and August are the busiest months.
Currency: Euro (€).
Language: Montenegrin, though English is widely spoken, especially in Porto Montenegro.
Final Thoughts
Tivat isn’t for everyone, and that’s exactly what makes it interesting. It’s both glossy and grounded, pretentious and peaceful—at times a little artificial, but undeniably beautiful.
Spend a day here, and you’ll see every side of it. Sip coffee beside billionaires… swim where the locals do… wander streets that smell like jasmine and salt. And when you leave, you’ll realize that beneath the polished surface, Tivat has a quiet soul all its own.
Inspired? Pin this post and share it with your friends!
